DIY Dry Sump System
-second hand dry sump pump or two
-a dry sump tank (if your ally welding is as bad as mine).
-various hydraulic fittings
-crank cam belt pulley
You will need to modify the sump of your engine to become a dry sump. To do this cut the bottom off the sump so that it looks like the roof of a house with no roof on. If you know what I mean.
Then bend a piece of sheet metal so that it covers the large hole you cut in the sump. Make sure you bend a gutter into the middle of it. This is where the oil will drain to and be sucked out to the tank in the boot.
You will then need to fashion a crank scraper / baffle to cover the gutter this should be welded closed on one side and have a small gap (about 1cm) on the other. The side that is open needs to be facing the rotation of the crank so that as it swings round the oil is flicked off into the gutter (do not get this wrong).
Next weld the bottom of the sump onto your cut up sump.
Then drill 2 or more scavenge pick ups onto the gutter. I recommend 4 as you can always blank them off if not needed. Locate more towards the rear as this is where the oil will collect during acceleration. The pickups I used where simply pipe joiners (female – female) then you can screw you hose tail into them.
The Hose tail is important as you will need to solder a brass mesh filter into the end to prevent and metal particles from entering the pump, in the event of a turbo failure etc.
Next mount the dry sump pump on the side of the engine. If you need more pumping power you can join 2 or more by making an extra long driveshaft. I used a ½” extension bar as this was made from forged steel and was very strong. This was then lathed down to fit exactly into the housings. To connect the drive I used an old crank cam belt pulley and welded it to a flange which I then lathed to suit the crank pulley on my car. Make sure you get the pitch of the teeth right so that it will mesh correctly with the belt. I found that an old pinto pulley worked well.
Now install the tank and external oil filter. You can also add an oil cooler but this is not really necessary as the tank will aid cooling.
To connect to the engine I removed the oil filter inlet and used hose tail that bolted straight in. You will also need to do away with your dipstick as this is not needed.
When plumbing it together. I used 2 pump bodies to put the oil in and 3 to scavenge it out. I ran 3 pipes to the back. 2 to supply the oil and one to return. This aids with the oil pressure. Do not connect the vents off of the dry sump tank to the engine. These need to exit into either the exhaust system or into a catch can and vent off to atmosphere as the dry sump scavenging effect also pumps air to the tank in the boot which helps increase engine vacuum pressure.